In the world very many grades of cheese which intensively smell are made, and some have such specific smell that can confuse not skilled buyer. And here paradox – most strongly smelling cheeses have so pleasant taste what to describe it better verses or comparisons with works of art.
Sometimes odorous cheeses can be met and in the Russian shops, but more often acquaintance to them occurs in native elements, that is on tourist trips to France, Switzerland, Holland, Belgium and other European countries. To visit France and not to try a little well-known soft (and odorous) some cheeses all the same that in Spain not to eat gazpacho, in Italy not to try a pizza, and in Japan of a land.
First of all, we will tell about marks of the French cheeses. Label AOC (Appellation d’origine contrôlée) means «the Original controllable name». «AOC can be appropriated only to the cheeses which are meeting the requirements of the current legislation. Manufacture of the milk serving by raw materials, and all process of manufacturing of cheese should correspond precisely to the local established traditions and recipes.» (Item 1 of the law of the French republic from November, 28th, 1955). Cheese with such marks will be such what it is described by culinary critics and gourmets. It is important. For example, German camembert at all fragrant also has the flavouring properties which are distinct from the French original. Cheese is prepared, more likely, for German buyers that in itself it is not bad, but does not correspond to expectations. As analogue AOC label PDO can serve in England and some other countries (Protected designation of origin) that also “attributes” the settled names of cheeses to district in which them historically made.
Almost all strongly smelling cheeses are prepared from not pasteurised milk, and the most part of cheeses concerns a category of the sustained soft cheeses. «Delissioussite» has made the list of ten most odorous cheeses of the world.
This Italian cheese for the first time have prepared in 10 century. Probably, it is one of the oldest soft cheeses. At that time cheese left to ripen in crude coastal grottoes, washing from time to time heads of cheese sea water. Most likely, the sea water rich with microorganisms, helped talledzhio to get glory of tasty and very odorous cheese. Cheese traditionally prepares in the autumn and in the winter because of specificity of the cow milk during this period. Modern manufacture talledzhio assumes maturing in special automatic machines in which the microclimate of caves is supported, but whether from a lack of fresh sea water and fresh air, or because that modern cheese prepare from the pasteurised milk, talledzhio 21 centuries not so fragrant, as its ancestors. Classical talledzhio till now becomes small parties on ancient technology from not pasteurised milk and with maturing on wooden regiments in sea grottoes. Once a week washes this cheese a sea sponge in order to avoid occurrence of a wrong mould.
Talledzhio has the soft structure reminding oil, with a thin crust of a shade of a wood bark with acting crystals of salt on a surface. Taste of cheese soft, with fruit notes and unusual smack. This cheese can be used in salads, to add in risotto or polenta.
The king of English cheeses – stilton. To make it it is possible only in counties Derbyshire, Leicestershire and Nottingempshir. On a twist of fate, in a small village of Stilton which have entitled the cheese well-known for the whole world, it is forbidden to make it as it is in a county Cambridgeshire. Structure stilton can be in a range from very soft, smeared, as oil, to firm, crumbling, with dark blue proveins caused by presence of penicillinic culture Penicillium roqueforti. The aroma gets cheese with the years – the older, the odorous and is more refined. Fat content stilton usually 32-35 %. To submit to it it is accepted port. Also it can be used in soups-mashed potatoes, it is very well combined stilton with a broccoli, crackers and a celery.
3. The fetid Bishop
One more English cheese. This grade of cheese has been revived from ancient recipes in 1972 and is issued now by the company «Charles Martell and Son» on a farm of Lourel in Gloucestershire in the south of England. Receive cheese from milk of cows of special breed. Colour of cheese can be from white-yellow to beige, with oranzhevo-grey colour of a crust. Fat content of cheese about 48 %. The Fetid Bishop has received the name from a grade of pears which were called Stinky Bishop and served as raw materials for manufacturing popular in the Middle Ages pear cider in which monks placed cheeses for washing of times in a month. In a combination to humidity and absence of salt which is not added while cheese does not separate from the form, these “bathings” create on a cheese surface the special microflora forming a smell, reminding long wearing socks and wet towels.
In something the Fetid Bishop is similar to French Époisses de Bourgogne, hotly favourite by Napoleon which aroma the refined natures consider offensive. The fetid Bishop ripens about 4 months, and after term the crust becomes very sticky, as a mushroom hat. Buying this cheese, take care of tight packing or transport it in an individual transport, differently it is possible to get to a situation described by Dzheromom K. Dzheromom in it «to Troy in a boat without considering a dog» when one behind one, passengers of the car in which the story-teller carried the cheese, left and even ran out at the nearest station if only not to feel cheese aroma. Taste of the Fetid Bishop is more tremendous gentle, and the unpleasant smell easily leaves together with a crust. Cheese is easily smeared on the dried bread or a ship’s biscuit and invariably is in the lead on popularity among English cheeses.
Germans too love fragrant cheese, but a little other character. The well-known German cheese smells not as dirty socks, as at Englishmen, or female aromas, as at Frenchmen. Limburger is a man, and it smells as a dirty man’s body. It appears, bacteria Brevibacterium participate in cheese maturing linens which are responsible for a smell of human sweat. Cheese favourite in Germany was so organically entered in German cookery while cheese actually comes from Belgium. Limburger love in Holland and Austria, it is mentioned and Pushkin in “Evgenii Onegine” as «cheese limburgish live». Colour of cheese creamy, a crust soft, yellowy-brown colour with mould traces. Taste Limburger intensive, saltish and sharply-spicy. It is very well combined with a potato and black bread. From drinks it is possible to recommend apple cider, beer or fortified red wine, for example, port.
5. A Roquefort cheese
It is the well-known blue cheese (with a mould), made in the south of France from the sheep milk and maintained in limy grottoes thanks to which microclimate in cheese noble mould Penicillium roqueforti, impacting that especial relish and aroma which is appreciated by gourmets is formed. The present Roquefort cheese prepares only from the sheep not pasteurised milk. It is necessary to warn that a Roquefort cheese besides that very tasty, also the dangerous. Especially it concerns pregnant women to whom the Roquefort cheese is not recommended because of infection possibility листериозом. (But the Roquefort cheese will seem harmless in comparison with mortally dangerous Italian forbidden cheese Casu Marzu from which it is possible to go blind and expire blood.) the Roquefort cheese is very popular in Russia, and he can be met at any restaurant. The Roquefort cheese can be submitted in the end of a meal, having picked up corresponding wine. Wine should those be brighter and is more sweet, than cheese aged.
6. Brie de Mo
Or in another way, bri from Mo. Мо is a small town in 40 km from Paris in which traditionally prepared this fine cheese and spent annual cheese fairs on which gourmets from all country gathered. Bri truly it is possible to name royal cheese. Queen Margo and Henry IV admired its taste Phillip August, II, the queen Navarsky, the duke Orleansky. The biggest French the glutton, the hero of the book François Rabelais «to Gargantjua and Pantagrjuel» presented a head bri to the parents. Bri not such fat and odorous, as camembert, other known soft French cheese though very much it reminds. The cheese represents a flat cake of 30-40 sm in diameter, thickness of 3-4 sm, with thin velvety touch of a white mould in which sometimes it is possible to notice reddish proveins. Under a gentle crust it is possible to find out gentle fluid weight of creamy colour with aroma of wood nuts. Strong and for many the unpleasant smell proceeds, as well as in other cases, from a crust. Experts assert that bri it is necessary to eat exclusively with a crust, and already after the first test the smell will not seem ammoniac, and the most gentle taste will for ever win the heart. It is necessary to tell that brie de Mo has not something in common with German bri, on sale in the Russian supermarkets in tin jars. Present bri do only of crude cow milk which forms gentle cream structure and a pungent smell with bright taste at keeping. Bri it is necessary to store in a refrigerator, but before giving to a table it should be warmed to a room temperature that taste and aroma have revealed at the full capacity. To bri resembles both white, and red wine.
Napoleon Bonaparte’s favourite cheese. This cheese in France is officially forbidden for taking in public transport that believe, in the country where idolise cheese, speaks about much. The compounding is invented by monks-tsistertsiantsami in the abbey located in small town Epuass in 16 century. Cheese prepare from integral and, certainly, not pasteurised milk and on one of stages soak in grape vodka “Mark”. After maturing (5-8 weeks) cheese gets a brilliant crust with small wrinkles of colour of an ivory at young Epuassa and red-brown shades at the sustained copies. Sharp taste and a pungent smell of a dirty body appears at cheese only at due endurance. Be attentive – under a crust cheese should be soft, кремообразным, and not smell at all as ammonia which signals that cheese is spoilt. Top-quality Epuass, according to experts, should smell as the woman – the aroma raising desire and hot memoirs.
Monks-benediktintsy have thought up the recipe of this cheese in 7 century. Cheese was born as monastic replacement to meat. On a legend, monks long experimented sour milk, and as a result there was a cheese with a beautiful reddish crust and a sharp original smell of high-mountainous pastures if to speak a poetic diction, and sweaty dirty feet, if in common language. Present muenster do only in the Vosges, and the main secret of monks consists that cheeses turn over time in two days and are wiped by water from vosges sources, and milk undertakes from special vosges breeds of cows. Despite the intensive aroma,muenster it is hotly favourite in France by fans of cheese, and tasting the glorified grade of cheese with good wine really has to poetry.
The well-known soft cheese from Normandy smells as connections of ammonium, amber acid and sodium chloride. Frenchmen compare it to a smell from a pipe of a chemical plant and love selflessly, naming «feet of god». As well as бри, camembert it is considered one of delicious cheeses in the world. It prepare from not pasteurised milk and allow to it to ripen in a current of 3 weeks. Cheese has the gentle crust covered with dense touch of a white velvet mould under which the weight of yellowish colour disappears creamy. Bread and red wine well will approach to cheese with the low maintenance of tannins. The main thing – do not forget that cheese is slightly washed down with wine, but not wine seizes cheese.
10. Pontus Levek
The native of Normandy, the most odorous cheese from the rich family tree originating in 12 century. This soft cheese with a gentle crust, mouldy, is prepared from integral cow milk. At the description of this cheese the aroma theme is traditionally avoided, but is possible, it and is correct – to what such attention at all to the main advantage of the well-known delicacy? In a head of this cheese you are expected by full, many-sided taste with the nut and fruit notes, perfectly combined with leaves of salad and Burgundian.
The cheese smell depends on many factors. The same grade to one people can seem pleasant to taste and a smell, both to avert others. And to appreciate odorous cheeses it is possible, only having tried them it is independent.
New impressions and bon appetit!